I had a morning free. Lisa was busy working on a paper for the conference so I decided to go find the Ecseri Flea Market. A quick ride on the tram to Boraros ter, jump on the 54 bus and get off at the Nazod stop. It should have been easy but the Nazod stop is now the Nagykorosi M5 stop; the signs on the bus as well as the signs on the street reflect the change, the maps and books do not. Anyway, I missed the stop. The bus driver eventually noticed me, I had asked if his was the right bus to the Ecseri Vasar, and told me I had missed the stop. I got off and crossed the street, caught a north bound 54 bus and got off at the Nazod stop. The signs had not been changed going north.

This flea market rivals any I have been to in the US, and as most of you know I have been to a lot of flea markets. There were three levels of booths. There were permanent inside booths with doors and some even had cash registers. There were the booths under the canopies of the buildings; some of these had folding tables or portable display racks. The third type of booth had no distinct characteristic, they could be a guy with a cart selling tomatoes or the back of a car filled with stuff. And what stuff there was. The general feeling to me is that everyone was selling anything old, or anything they thought was old, remnants of the cold war, war relics, statues, clothes, army blankets from several different armies, some winners and some losers. There were at least a thousand paintings, there were at least 250 coffee grinders, there were hundreds of military helmets, and cameras from every manufacture.

Victrolas, cast iron water fountains, furs and pelts, glass ware, native clothes and cloth, toys, and small steam engines.

The pictures will help describe what I was seeing. The personalities of the sellers varied as much as their wares and booths. Some little ladies dressed in traditional Hungarian country clothes were selling their “hand made” table cloths and napkins. There were slick looking vendors lurking for a un-suspecting tourist and everything was “antic, antic.” Busts of Stalin and Lenin and other Russian and Hungarian leaders.

There were a lot of reproduction pieces from China. Every rare mechanical bank ever sold in the US was carefully aged and had a nice acid patina. Antik, antik. The laws in Hungary are different, things do not have to say Made in Wherever or Eastern Wherever, you must look close. Something reminded me of what the flea markets would have looked like in the US when electricity came to the cities, everyone threw out their old coffee grinder and bought an electric one. The ice boxes that are so collectible today were quickly taken to the curb when the new fridge arrived. In some ways this looked like a general store in the Amana Colonies.

There were lots of knives and swords but no guns. Did I mention the paintings, thousands of paintings.

I know what you are wondering…did you buy anything?

I made the rounds of the entire market. On the first pass I saw a brightly colored rug but ignored it as I passed. (old flea market rule #3) I saw several interesting rugs but this one had nice images and color. I stopped on the second pass and looked it over, “antik, antik” the vendor said as he pulled it from under some other items he had displayed. “Nem antik” I said as I examined a couple of loose threads. (rule 4, point out flaws) “Antik, antik” he said, “65000 forints.” “Are you smoking crack” I said. I don’t think he understood me but it sounded good at the time. I started to walk away, always be ready to walk away is rule #5, Mrs. Vendor followed me with the rug and said “50000 forints”. I shook my head and she understood and held her hand out for me to write an offer. I thought for a second and wrote 5000 on her hand. She shook her head and made several hungry baby and baby needs new shoes gestures and she walked off. I wasn’t familiar with this rule in flea market dealings but before I could think about it to long here came Junior Vendor and said in perfect English “5000 will be fine.” Damn, I left money on the table. So I bought the rug, I like it, (rule #1, always say you like it even if you don’t.) My first sortie into the world of Eastern European flea markets was successful, I have the place scoped out and will return in a few weeks.

The pictures will add to the story.

Post Script: As I walked thru the exit I looked back and saw Junior Vendor carrying a box of 26701-B’s to the booth. Maybe I’ll buy another one so we’ll have a set.